I bought some retro Schwinn stickers for my cruiser. Question is how the heck do you put them on? Looks like it could be a water transfer. Are you supposed to spray clear on top? Or should I just look harder for the peal away?
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Well, they could be water-transfer; how old a bike are we talking about? Can you make a scan of the decal sheet, so we can see what we're dealing with?
You could spend all day trying to peel apart water-transfers, and soak self-adhesives 'til the cows come home with no result.
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This is a new seatube sticker that is a copy of the 50's-Early 60s Jag. It's about 8 inches long, with vertical white lines and a circle with a schwinn logo in the middle. I will see if I can get a scan or take a pic. I dont think that the lettering is backwards just looking at the decal.
If it is water, what do you do? Soak it for a minute then slide it off? Then spray over with clear laq?
(锕侊箒)~~~~---------------------------------------------------------------------- Originally Posted by slagjumper
This is a new seatube sticker that is a copy of the 50's-Early 60s Jag. It's about 8 inches long, with vertical white lines and a circle with a schwinn logo in the middle. I will see if I can get a scan or take a pic. I dont think that the lettering is backwards just looking at the decal.
If it is water, what do you do? Soak it for a minute then slide it off? Then spray over with clear laq?
I'm pretty sure that ORIGINAL decals were water transfer and were NOT clearcoated at all. Otherwise...
A rub on decal has 3 layers. 1)A backing paper, the decal itself, 2)a clear plastic layer, 3) a paper carrier sheet. remove the paper carrier, then remove the backing paper. The decal will be on the back of the clear plastic sheet. Line it up and press it into place, working from the center outward. Use a little masking tape to hold the clear sheet in place. Rub briskly with a Bic lighter. Carefully peel back the clear layer, checking that all the decal has been transfered.
Water transfer are pretty tricky to get on in one piece. Work carefully! Let dry for several days before clearcoating.
!!!!!!!!DO NOT USE LAQUER!!!!!!!!!!
Laquer is worthless on a bicycle. Chips worse than anything I have ever used! And it can ruin your decals.
Rattle can enamel or compatible auto paint clear, such as PPG DCU2042 is prefered.
NON rub-down or water transfer decals are most likely varnish-on decals. Varnish used to be used "in the old days" to apply decals over what was likely enamel paint. The new, easier method for those type of decals is to use a glue-stik, such as UHU. This method requires several days minimum to dry properly.
Now CLEAR. First, spray a light dusty coat over the decals. Let dry for an hour or two. Second light coat. Wait a couple more hours. 3rd coat can be a little wetter. Again, wait a couple of hours. NOW spray an entire coat of clear. Let dry at least overnight. Sand lightly with 1000 grit sandpaper to smooth the roughness of the light dusty coats that may still be visible.
Then you can go ahead and spray 2-3 wet coats of clear. Spray quickly on the last coat and try to get the whole frame wet in a short amount of time. check thoroughly for dusty areas and spray till they are wet & smooth. Careful or you'll get runs!
If the decals are rub-down type, you can clear immediately and don't have to do the 3 light dusty coat process. Just rub 'em on and spray the 2-3 wet coats of clear as per the manufacturers instructions.
Still confused? E me and I'll be happy to elaborate further.
Originally Posted by slagjumper
This is a new seatube sticker that is a copy of the 50's-Early 60s Jag. It's about 8 inches long, with vertical white lines and a circle with a schwinn logo in the middle. I will see if I can get a scan or take a pic. I dont think that the lettering is backwards just looking at the decal.